Nestled deep inside the bohemian Wessex Estate in Singapore is a non air-conditioned eatery that reminds one of the ‘Kampong’ (village) restaurants of old-time Singapore.
Colbar Eating House (short for Colonial Bar) is a quaint and nostalgic hideaway, serving food that is a holdover from the time when the British still rule Singapore. Even though it’s a little out of way, especially for those who don’t drive, it is a charming spot worthy of a trip to just get away from civilisation for a while, chill out and relive the old days.
Colbar Eating House, as it was originally called, was opened by a Mr & Mrs Lim in 1953, making it 68 years old this year. It is located in the Portsdown area which used to house British army barracks in the 1900s. It started out as a canteen for the nearby army base serving base personnel and also an unofficial mess for the old British Army barracks.
What’s interesting is that Colbar was originally located on a small road named Jalan Hang Jebat. On its 50th anniversary in 2003, Colbar was slated for removal to make way for the construction of a major semi-expressway to connect Queenstown to the Ayer-Rajah Expressway (AYE).
The Jurong Town Corporation (JTC) who were masters of the one-north development at that time decided to step in, and together with members of the community, worked with various governmental organisations to preserve this legendary eating house.
So from August 2003, Colbar moved from its original location to its current premises at Whitchurch Road. Interestingly, the many fragile materials such as clay roof tiles, timber screens and solid timber swing doors were carefully reused in the construction at its new premises.
Much attention was also paid to the unique architecture of the building, with the colours and texture of the old Colbar meticulously matched and applied throughout the building. Colbar officially re-opened its premise in 2004.
The interior of the eatery is retro too with old-time light & fan fixtures, formica tabletops, old school classroom tables & plastic chairs plus an antique weighing machine right smacked at the entrance. All these brings an air of nostalgia that sends you back in time. Moreover, the establishment walls are decorated with old photos and cabinets full of memorabilia. Even the toilet doors are classic aluminium doors locked in place by hooks.
The food that Colbar had been dishing out all these years had apparently not changed much either – a mix of simple local favourites alongside a curious offering of localised Western food; specifically Hainanese-styled British fare. The early Chinese cooks for the British were mostly immigrants from Hainan in China, and they were taught by the British to cook British favourite dishes. Over time these dishes evolved into what might be considered the early form of Singapore fusion cuisine.
I must however mention that great as the ambience may be, the food is mediocre at best and pretty pricey for its standards. The service while efficient is delivered perfunctorily. A favourite on Colbar’s menu of local and Western dishes is its Chinese style chicken curry rice, and pseudo-British gems like Ox-liver chips and peas, Ox-Liver Sandwich, Chicken Merry Land, Boiler Prawn & Chips, Spaghetti on toast and other odd-sounding delights.
For my dinner, I decided to go for the big mixed grill as the smaller version only cost 4 dollars less. It turned up as a plate laden with various meats including beef, lamb, sausage, bacon, a fried egg and an interesting piece of fried cow liver, all slathered in a rather ubiquitous brown sauce along with out-of-can peas & mushrooms plus potato wedges.
I must say that I’d rather liked the skin-on and thick-cut roasted potato wedges that had a crispy exterior and soft inside. The wedges have a homely feel to them. No single potato wedge on my plate is similar, which means that they were individually hand-cut and cooked, in the traditional manner. Although this was probably one of the largest mixed grills I've had, it is also one of the more expensive ones. A whole load of red meat, grease and stuff, but all in, still a pretty enjoyable dining experience.
I believed the enjoyable experience was somewhat helped by the accompanying Old Thumper, the iconic beer from Ringwood Brewery. Incidentally the place does offer up a variety of English craft beers, ciders & bitter IPAs, which I believe helps greatly to make the food taste better.
Overall, what the Colbar lacks in food quality and service, is certainly made up for by its nostalgic ambiance. Sitting amid the lush foliage with cicadas chirping in the background, this is a wonderful rustic escape and a great place to drop by if you happen to be in the Portsdown & One-North area. Image Credit: SG Food On Foot & The Lion Raw
