White Truffle Rhapsody Arrives at Buona Terra

Driving in to the compound of Buona Terra I felt I was on my way to visit a friend. Located in a black and white house on Scotts Road, there was ample parking in this luscious garden.

Having won itself a one Michelin in 2019 and 2021 I was keen to see the refurbished space of Buona Terra. Labelled contemporary Italian gastronomy which peaked my curiosity even more, I stepped in to a light, stylish and modern interior.  

A soft spot for white table linen, I felt an immediate warm welcome. You see my grandmother was a stickler for white linen so I guess this to me set the scene for a fine dining experience.

Chef Denis Lucchi who hailed from Lombardy, came by to say hello explaining that many of his creations were seasonal, so diners were indeed lucky to have meals sourced fresh from local and Italian producers. Having grown Buona Terra for the last ten years to where it was today, his dishes had developed many fold as he experimented with various ingredients along the way.

As we settled down to a glass of Cordero di Montezemolo Chardonnay a basket of house-made onion focaccia, sourdough and soft rolls appeared. Along with slim Grissini sticks and Italian Beppino Occelli butter we could not stop. Biggest mistake but I do it every time!

What I love about fine dining are the little snacks that turn up at the start. Canapes created with such flair, we were served a Gazpacho soup that was encapsulated with a cocoa butter casing and black olive powder. One bite and the most delicious soup broke open in my mouth with such deep flavours. I could taste the raspberry vinegar – simply divine and a fabulous start to get the juices flowing.

A squid ink tart encased with the lightest shell (kuih pie tee didn’t stand a chance) filled with crab and avocado mousse. The Parmesan cheese biscotto also had an extremely light pastry much like a vol-au-vent, and this was filled with apple jam. I love variety, this was truly accentuating the artistry and creativity of Chef Denis.

As conversation ensued with friends at the table and wine was consumed, we were truly settled to start the main act. Waiters came around to each diner, lending some drama to the dish as they shaved horse radish snow on to Yellowtail carpaccio. With wasabi type heat, snow was the exact complement to challenge it. Brilliant!

We moved on to an orange wine much like a rose but better. This Arboreus white wine blended well with the next dish of Turbot, red prawns, Swiss chard, Caviar and dill sauce. Oh what a feeling! The brown butter poached seafood made such a difference. Impactful yet subtle and clean. One of my picks for the night, it was such a stunning blend of texture, taste, presentation and creativity all in one dish.

I realized we had only progressed through two of five masterpieces on the menu. A five-course dinner at Buona Terra was listed at $198 onwards but we had so many canapes and snacks along the way and were just about only halfway through. A seriously well-priced menu I thought, knowing the quality of what I was being served.

A Mozambique scampi with lardo served with puntarella, obviously in season.  An anchovies “Bagna Cauda” sauce, which originates from Piedmont made from garlic and anchovies was a great accompaniment. I know some people find anchovies too strong but seriously, the sauce blended so well with its ingredients I wouldn’t have known.

The next dish sounded fascinating. Spaghettini, seafood stew, garum, chilli butter and parsley powder, we were expecting a heavy stew. There was none. Rolled spaghettini arrived and one mouthful was enough to taste stew that was immersed in it. As dehydrated parsley powder was strewn over it, this just sealed my pick….and the award for the night goes to spaghettini! I would go back just for that. How could anything top that?

Risotto in saffron sauce cooked in bone marrow and veal jus served with braised artichoke was flavoursome especially with a glass of red, which by now we had half devoured.

I loved the menu! It was very seafood centric and that gave it a lightness though we were all nearing a surrender. Dry-aged duck breast served with coffee, salsify puree and crisps. Salsify a root vegetable from the dandelion family, is also known as the oyster plant because of its similar taste when cooked. This and Moscato sauce presented a great accompaniment to the duck which had a layer of fat, so tasty which none of us would venture to give up. Down the hatch it all went when we realized we had three desserts to go.

As I have always said, this is a separate compartment in the body hence the strawberry salad with herbs and aged balsamic vinegar was a lovely cut to the richness that came before it.

Then the diva of the night, a thin wedge of apple cake with caramel at the bottom, layered with apples and syrup served with vanilla apple ice-cream. Petit four to end the night on a high note. Earl Grey chocolate lollipops - how cute and fruit gelee equivalent to high class jujubes. Didn’t we all have them when we were kids?

The best mini cannolo’s with crunchy crusts that housed ground pistachio, chopped Valrhona 55% chocolate and candied orange and lemon. Rather shamelessly I had two. Pistachios drew me in without resistance. What a finale to an awesome evening.

If you are more of a lunch person try the four course at $118 or the five course at $158. Save this for a special occasion for Buona Terra is indeed that….truly special!

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