What is it about exceptional food that makes a writer want to pick up a pen and tell all the moments they walk out of a restaurant? Well, dine at Esquina to find out.
In a city where dining establishments struggle to keep their doors open, Esquina has found roots to stand tall. Celebrating its 15th anniversary, this chef-led Spanish establishment is all things fine. Channelling tapas vibes without resorting to the age-old patatas bravas route, the food at Esquina is inspired, intentional, and absolutely delicious.
Chef-Owner Carlos Montobbio is only getting better with time. In the past 11.5 years since he has helmed the kitchen at Esquina, he has risen from a young prodigy to a respected peer in the tight-knit chef circles of Singapore. My last visit to Barcelona was built around his personal food recommendations – hidden nooks that no tourist can find but locals queue up for. And my introduction to Catalan food couldn’t have been more authentic.
Technique Meets Produce: The Art Behind Chef Carlos’s Kitchen
In true Spanish style, Chef Carlos puts as much emphasis on procurement of produce as he does on technique, flavours and styling. The star dish of the evening, or rather one of the shining stars of a glittering menu, was a simple tomato gazpacho. Elevated with technique (the addition of sourdough to the soup for texture), the dish heroes the key ingredient – the tomato.
Procured from a specialised farm in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands and grown using Japanese seeds, the wedge of this everyday ingredient was juicy, flavourful and a standout by itself. Add to that the drops of burnt chive oil to lift the dish, and an ingenious manchego and burrata ice cream that is the stuff dreams are made of. This deceptively simple dish spoke volumes of the chef’s understanding of flavour combinations.
Counter seating at Esquina makes for delightful date nights or a catch up with a friend or business partner. The atmosphere is congenial and easy, with servers that can explain the intricacies of each dish, should you be curious, or simply leave you to converse with each other, if you so prefer. The a la carte menu allows you to pick favourites if you have a small appetite or prefer a quick meal. But to do justice to the kitchen, you must, at least once, try the set menu here. And come hungry.
Reliving the Classics: Personal Favourites from the Limited-Edition Anniversary Menu
Esquina is celebrating its 15th anniversary by bringing back specials that diners have loved over the years, such as the Foie Gras Terrine from 2016, one of my personal favourites, or my partner’s choice - the Ofunato Bay Scallops (2019), lent an edge with a burnt onion sauce.
If you think you know Spanish food, you are in for a surprise here. Beyond the tiny bowls of paella with mini uni, Esquina shines with flavours that feel sophisticated yet familiar. Take for example, the Carabinero al ajillo, or a giant prawn in a garlic oil bath. The dish is simple, the produce hand-picked, but the perfectly cooked meat with slivers of garlic swimming in the olive oil leaves nothing to be desired. Or the Iberico Pork Jowl (2016) sitting on top of an addictive chipotle mayo with meat so tender that you forget to chew for a moment as the meat melts away.
Why This Open Kitchen Deserves a Permanent Spot on Your Dining List
Esquina sits at that sweet spot between a special occasion venue, a business partner meeting, or simply a night when you want to dress up and enjoy an exceptional meal, alone, with friends, or your partner. For a restaurant to cradle all these segments with ease is rare and noteworthy.
Chef-owner Carlos Montobbio’s warm and friendly demeanour and ease of handling an open kitchen belie his remarkable talent. With anniversary specials changing every few weeks, Esquina should be on your list a few times this year, if it isn’t already. On my part, I will be dreaming of the Manchego ice cream for days to come.
