What is fast becoming Tiong Bahru’s favourite haunt, Magpie by Chef-owner Eliot Thomas, is the perfect example of how keeping things simple lends itself to success. Tucked away in one of Singapore’s most heritage-rich neighborhood enclaves, where vintage Art Deco architecture meets cutting-edge culinary ambition, this understated bistro has managed to capture lightning in a bottle. The buzz here on a Tuesday night is what most restaurants hope for on weekends, with a steady hum of lively conversation, clinking glassware, and the palpable energy of a room filled with thoroughly contented diners. A tightly curated, one-page menu, servers who give genuine, on-point recommendations, and food that consistently delivers on big, bold flavours—Magpie seems to have ticked all three boxes with effortless style.
The Vibe at Magpie
Seated right at the counter, we had the opportunity to watch the kitchen in action throughout the evening. It immediately struck me how remarkably calm it was. Restaurant kitchens are usually high-decibel environments marked by bustling movement and shouting, where heat and tension run high. Open kitchens like these have the added pressure of turning that innate tension into organised chaos, as their every move is being watched, dissected, and often photographed by curious diners.
However, the kitchen at Magpie was comfortably the calmest one I have ever seen. Despite a full house and a non-stop ticket machine, the chefs doled out plates quietly, systematically, and with absolute precision, never once rushing, clattering pans, or looking the least bit harried.
Standout Appetizers & Small Plates
We took our server’s astute advice and started off with the Tandoori Bread ($9). To pair with that, we also ordered the Taramasalata ($24). The Tandoori Bread served here is basically an Indian-style naan slathered generously with herb-infused butter. By itself, it may have seemed simple or even lacklustre, but it served as the perfect warm vessel for lapping up the Taramasalata, which was nothing short of divine. A masterpiece of umami goodness in each bite, the velvety, creamy dip was artfully topped with a ribbon of vibrant chilli oil, crispy dill, and delicate ribbons of pickled cucumber for crunch and acidity. I’ve had taramasalata dips aplenty across fine-dining establishments and casual bistros alike, but this particular version stood out by leaps and bounds. It was the absolute embodiment of the philosophy behind Magpie’s menu - aggressively delicious, unconventionally familiar.
The appetizer section of the menu is undeniably its strong suit, and it is highly recommended that you pick a few of these shareable plates before even thinking about heading into the mains. The Nihari Mochi was absolute genius, executing a crossover of rich, slow-cooked beef broth notes and chewy Japanese rice cake texture that made me wonder why no one else in the region’s fusion landscape has thought of this yet.
The Chicken Liver Terrine ($28) was another immediate winner. Strong on deep, savoury flavours, the silky, rich terrine paired with paper-thin crunchy crisps made for a stellar accompaniment to a chilled beverage. We also tried the Ceviche, featuring generous cuts of raw tuna tossed with passion fruit. The fish was cut into big, meaty chunks unlike the delicate slivers or tiny cubes one usually finds in standard renditions of the dish, and while it was undeniably fresh and pleasant, it did not stand out quite as dramatically as the starters that preceded it.
Hearty Mains & Indulgent Desserts
We had luck favoring us on our visit as Magpie’s head mixologist, the exceptionally talented Trisha "Taco" Leong, personally oversaw our meal, curating wine pairings and sharing her personal favourites as we worked our way through the menu. On her glowing recommendation, we ordered the Mt. Barker Chicken ($56) for our main course. A generous portion fit for two hungry diners, the in-bone roasted chicken was every bit as succulent, tender, and intensely savoury as she had promised. It arrived served alongside a complex, deeply spiced Mexican mole sauce and a punchy salsa that cut right through the richness of the meat.
To conclude the feast, we wrapped up our dinner with a Warm Dark Chocolate Chili Mousse ($18) paired with a scoop of spiced ice cream. Holding the satisfying consistency of a rich baked pudding rather than an airy whip, the dessert offered a subtle, lingering heat that built up gently with every bite. Decadent, nuanced, and utterly satisfying, it was as comforting as a warm hug on a rainy evening.
Final Verdict
Magpie doesn’t pretend to reinvent the wheel, nor does it rely on pretentious culinary jargon to validate its presence. They don’t do gratuitous theatrics, nor do they rely on overly elaborate plating techniques or bizarre, unusual pairings merely for the sake of shock value.
What they do instead is take honest, soulful flavours drawn from diverse culinary traditions across the world, cook them using sophisticated, rock-solid techniques, and add a thoughtful touch of their own original perspective to every single plate. The food is neither subtle nor boring; it is loud, confident, and utterly memorable. It is a restaurant designed entirely for lively evenings that end with wide smiles, a delightfully full belly, and an instant promise to return for more.
