Expat Choice Reporter Rebecca Assice at Il Toro: Singapore's Most Exciting New Restaurant Brings Fire and Theatre to Gemmill Lane

Published - 31 October 2025, Friday
  • Singapore’s Il Toro Ignites the Culinary Scene in a Fiery Review by Expat Choice Reporter Rebecca Assice

My girlfriends and I haven't stopped talking about Il Toro since our meal there last week. This is the kind of restaurant that immediately earns a place on your "must-return" list—the sort of dining experience that lingers in conversation long after the plates are cleared. Tucked along Gemmill Lane, this wood-fired Italian newcomer represents possibly the finest restaurant opening Singapore has seen this year.

Behind it all is Drew Nocente, the Aussie-Italian chef whose impressive credentials include the long-standing Cenzo on Club Street. What sets Drew apart isn't just his culinary expertise—it's his genuine engagement with diners. He moves seamlessly between commanding the impressive wood-fired grill and connecting with guests, bringing warmth and personality to what could easily rest on technical prowess alone. This is a chef who understands that memorable dining experiences require both exceptional food and authentic hospitality.

A Menu Forged By Fire

And what food it is. Our meal proved outstanding from the first theatrical flourish: focaccia bread served with a beef fat candle. Yes, an actual flame flickers atop rendered beef fat that you scoop up with pillowy bread. It's showy, delicious and sets the tone perfectly for what follows.

The Coffin Bay Oysters with yuzu kosho and smoked beef fat were simply the finest oysters I've encountered all year—briny, silky, with that whisper of smoke elevating them beyond the ordinary. The Foie Gras with fig and pistachio delivered exactly the richness promised, while the Sea Bream with Amalfi lemon, bone reduction and caviar showcased Drew's ability to balance indulgence with freshness. The Iberico Pork Belly and Sausage Skewer brought comforting, rustic flavours and those Tiger Prawns with garlic chilli—enormous, succulent, perfectly cooked—had us fighting over the last one.

starters

This selection of starters alone could have defined the evening. We were already raving, already planning return visits. Yet somehow, despite approaching capacity, we couldn't stop when the mains arrived.

The Blackmore Wagyu MS9+ Tri Tip exemplified everything wood-fire cooking should achieve—tender, deeply flavoured, with that impossibly perfect sear only live flame can produce. The Turbot, wallowing luxuriously in fermented tomato dashi, offered delicate contrast to the meat's robustness. But the Baby Potatoes with hot honey and ricotta? Unexpectedly brilliant—the kind of side dish you'd happily order as a main.

Mint Slice al Fuoco

Then came dessert and suddenly that small iron we'd noticed heating in the fire made sense. The Mint Slice al Fuoco arrives at the table where Drew personally sears the marshmallow topping with the mini hot iron until it achieves sticky, charred perfection. It's theatrical without being gimmicky, delicious without relying solely on showmanship—exactly what distinguishes truly exceptional restaurants from merely good ones.

Il Toro succeeds because it never chooses between substance and spectacle. Drew has created a space where serious Italian technique meets Australian confidence, where open-flame cooking becomes both craft and performance, where diners leave satisfied yet already anticipating their return.

Raw Beauty and Refined Hospitality

If you're maintaining any sort of dining list for Singapore, Il Toro demands a spot at the very top. This is the kind of restaurant that reminds you why this city's culinary scene remains world-class—and why discovering somewhere genuinely special still feels thrilling.

a. 18 Gemmill Ln, Singapore 069255

e. dine@iltoro.com.sg

w. www.iltoro.com.sg

fb. www.facebook.com/iltorosingapore

ig. www.instagram.com/iltoro.sg

t. +65 8259 1021

 

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