The Art of Eating is a Deeply Visceral Act with this Limited Time Fragrant Collaboration at Restaurant Jag

Published - 18 February 2020, Tuesday

Chef Jeremy Gillon of the Michelin-starred Restaurant Jag has teamed up with his Duxton Road neighbour, Johanna Monange of the Parisian fragrance-house Maison 21G to create the new Scent & Savour winter menu, the first of its kind in Singapore.

That’s right. Perfume and dinner. Both incredibly passionate about sustainable ingredients, Gillon and Monange have created a six-course dining experience that will undoubtedly generate long lasting impressions for diners.

Restaurant JAG

The result of their collaboration is a delectable culinary and olfactory journey through France, from the coastline of Normandy, past the salty shoreline of Corsica, through mountain forests and to the snow-capped Alps. Housed in a shophouse with a charming view of their open kitchen, Restaurant Jag is the perfect place to indulge in this bespoke gastronomic experience.

Chef Gillon’s passion for incorporating indigenous herbs foraged from the Savoie region of France truly adds a hint of terroir to every dish, a sense of home for the Chef, and a sense of travel for guests.

Restaurant JAG

Every dish is complemented by one of Maison 21G’s six bespoke perfumes, which are spritzed on small ceramic squares placed in front of each diner, which impacts the guests’ experience by helping to reveal more of the story behind the food. This touch of whimsy really made me pay close attention to how I eat – the art of eating as a deeply visceral act. This dining odyssey started off with two canapes, one a savory corn and soy crisp, and the other a woodruff and parsnip bite, perfect to really get our appetites revved up.

The first course served was titled “Forest Visit”. The accompanying perfume evoked the the scent, and sense, of walking through a forest on a cold winter’s morning, the damp earth beneath your feet and the smell of pine in the air, a good escape from Singapore’s climate. Monange sources patchouli from Sumatra; the art of drying this patchouli is an art – it takes months!

Restaurant JAG

The dish was a celebration of mushrooms, featuring porcini powder, pickled shimeji, and grilled shitake, garnished with beer crumble, textures of buckwheat, shiso and marigold cress. The earthiness of the mushrooms was balanced by the acidity of the pickled shimeji, and the crumble lent a welcomed texture. All soaking in a mushroom consommé, this dish offered a light taste of the earth while remaining delicate on the palate.

Next up was the refreshingly named “Under my Orange Tree” course. This citrusy excursion featured a fresh Hokkaido scallop carpaccio nestled under segments of fresh valencia and blood oranges, buddha’s hand zest, sliced kumquat, refreshing pops of orange juice gelée, all topped with wild fennel cress and deep-fried dried shredded scallop.

Restaurant JAG

A taggiasca tapenade grounded the dish, while the muscodavo added sweetness to balance out the olives. The inspiration for the perfume was also lovely. As Ms Johanna described it, the aroma of an orange smells like a smile and conveys sunshine.

The third course invited us to “Walk in my Garden”, with a yellow beetroot sphere braised with framboisier leaf then glazed with red beetroot juice. The basil pesto, torched rosemary petals and refreshing pea cress made this a gorgeously plated dish. I appreciated the playful use of the yellow beetroot. The basic beauty of the beet is celebrated, which is not always easy to do. The perfume was exquisite, as it tied in complex woody and rich raspberry notes.

My favourite dish was the fourth experience: “Let’s go see the Ocean”. I grew up eating the freshest of seafoods on the east coast of Canada. Chef Gillon left me speechless. The marinated icelandic langoustine was served on banana shallot textures (raw, mashed & dehydrated), sauteed lettuce, and variations of seaweeds deglazed with calamansi vinegar.

The vinegar, spring onions and lemon zest were the perfect companions to the otherwise bold tastes on the plate. There were also plump New Zealand clams and sauteed sea snails.

The aroma and deep flavour of the langoustine consommé made this dish extremely satisfying. This celebration of the sea, an exploration of marine textures and flavours was the perfect powerhouse. The freshness of the seafood was undeniable. Could I taste the Atlantic Ocean? Without a doubt.

Next up was a trou normand, which is a sorbet dish served as a mini pause during a long meal. It consisted of a ricola, peppermint & wild mint sorbet with tamarind paste, a perfect “break” between two strong courses. After that petite pause, it was time for the boldest of them all.

The fifth main was “Our dear Mountains”, an ode to the Alps. The 48-hours marinated venison was seared to perfection. The meat was ridiculously tender, almost buttery. The cliché ‘melt in your mouth’ is about as close as you can get to a perfect description. The mountains’ landscapes came alive with the use of braised dandelion root, spelt crumble with dandelion and absinthe flowers.

Cedar smoked fleur de sel made the venison really pop, while its smokiness helped to paint the idea of winter. The venison jus with cocoa was outstanding. Not only did it taste incredible, it looked beautiful on the plate, with the dark red contrasting with the green spinach and pine mash. Paired with a big red wine, this hearty dish made you want to curl up in front of a fireplace in a cabin set deep in the Alps.

At last, it was desert time. “The island of Beauty” is a tribute to the island of Corsica, an island of rugged cliffs and turquoise water, and where an abundance of chestnuts grow. The creme legère (chestnut custard cream & whipped cream), segments of mandarine sariette and mandarine gelée, confit madarine skin and zest were covered in a chestnut & sariette crumble.

The crunch from the crumble was fun to eat. It was not overly rich or sweet, which was great following the venison. Monange captured the essence of Corsica, a scent that reminded me of salty air, coastal flowers, and undertones of nuttiness.

Throughout this entire curated event, the staff was exceptional – friendly and professional – and in a way, along with the Chef and Ms Johanna, made us feel like part of the team. Impeccable. These French neighbours have created something truly special, a night you won’t forget. This one-of-a-kind olfactory dining experience is not to be missed!

This limited-time “Winter” menu will be only be available from February 25th to the 29th. Your tastebuds, nose, and mind will thank you. Bon apétit!

Reservations can be made by calling: +65 3138 8477. Diners will each receive an exclusive Maison 21G perfume.

A. 76 Duxton Rd 089535

Visit Restaurant JAG

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Richard

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RATED 7.5 / 8
That’s right. Perfume and dinner. Both incredibly passionate about sustainable ingredients, Gillon and Monange have created a six-course dining experience that will undoubtedly generate long lasting impressions for diners.

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